As we reach the western end of the Stone Arch Bridge, we can see, atop the bluff to our left, a ruined building. The eastern and northern walls have almost entirely collapsed. We are looking at the ruins of the Wasburn Crosby A-Mill (later to become General Mills). And it is in those very ruins, located at 704 S. Second St overlooking the Mississippi river (map), that the Mill City Museum is housed. Known simultaneously as “The most explosive museum in the world”, and “the best smelling museum ever created,” the museum is worthy of both monikers. 

If the walls of the museum could talk… they’d probably say “Ouch!” (Photo courtesy of Ben Schaffhausen)

 ”The Most Explosive Museum in the Country”

This nickname derives from several sources: the 1878 explosion that leveled the original Wasburn Crosby A-Mill (on the same site as the current building), the “Flour Tower” ride, which allows guests to experience the aforementioned explosion firsthand and live to tell about it, and the daily demonstrations of the explosive properties of flour dust (more on the last two later.)

“The Best-Smelling Museum ever Created”

The museum features a baking lab, which allows guests to create all sorts of delicious and sweet-smelling baked goods.

The Experience:

The first thing that struck me when I entered the museum’s lobby was the mix of old and new elements in the design. If kind of felt like a modern loft in a redeveloped old building. The other thing that struck me was that, aside from a railroad boxcar parked at the far end of the lobby, and a few photos on the wall, there were no exhibits. When I bought my ticket at the counter adjacent to the bookstore/giftshop, I learned that the exhibits were two floors below me. The outer wall along the staircase is made almost entirely of glass, affording a wonderful view of the courtyard that was “created” by the 1991 fire:

The museum’s courtyard is open to visitors and also hosts concerts, gatherings, and even weddings. I wonder how many girls grow up dreaming of one day getting married in a burned out building.
(Photo courtesy of Matthew Johnson)

The exhibit space itself is small, but packed with interesting exhibits and fun hands-on things to do. I hadn’t thought a museum about milling would or could be very fun or exciting, but the Mill City Museum definitely proved me wrong. I  especially enjoyed the large milling machinery that was on display, and the water lab, which challenges the visitor to dam a model of the Mississippi River correctly in order to simultaneously provide water power to model mills on both sides of the river. There was also an interactive exhibit on the power of water pressure. I ended up getting a little wet from that one, but not enough to wish I had towel or a change of clothes.

Design your own cereal box while sitting on a butter stool next to giant pancakes. Mmm… giant pancakes!   (Photo courtesy of pizzapancakes)

On my second visit to the museum, I thoroughly enjoyed watching a costumed actor portray William de la Barre (an important figure in the history of milling in Minnesota), and tell his (De La Barre’s) story. “Mr. de la Barre” also demonstrated the explosive properties of flour dust by using a small quantity of it to blow the roof off of a model mill (these demonstrations are performed daily). I also watched a video, made by local historian Kevin Kling, called “Minneapolis in 19 Minutes Flat”, which was a very funny, entertaining, and concise look at the history of Minneapolis. I would highly recommend it. I think kids would enjoy it as well.

My favorite part of the Mill City Museum was, without a doubt, the “Flour Tower”. This is as close as I have ever come to going on a ride in a museum. About twenty other guests and I were led by a costumed staff member into an enormous freight elevator with carpeted, bleacher-style seating. We were then raised and lowered through a series of eight floors. At each floor, the doors would open and we would be presented with a typical mill scene: milling machines humming loudly, the offices of the people who ran the mill, etc. Each scene was accompanied by recordings of stories or memories of the mill, told by people who actually worked there. Near the end, we witnessed the events leading up to the 1878 explosion unfolding all over again. When the mill “exploded”, I felt the elevator car shake. We exited the “Flour Tower” on the top story (8th story I think) of the building, and were treated to stunning views of the river from the rooftop observation deck, and a fun ride back down in a glass elevator.

A lovely panorama of the view from the museum’s observation deck. (Photo courtesy of NVJ)

The “Best Smells” (highlights) of the Mill City Museum:

1. The building itself – The combination of the ruined old stone building and modern glass, wood, and concrete interior creates a refreshingly unique environment for a history museum.
2. The interactive exhibits – The water exhibits mentioned above and the baking laboratory give guests the chance to be actively involved in milling processes and history.
3. Fun for all ages – Kids and adults alike will enjoy the museum, though the explosion on the Flour Tower may scare some younger kids.
4. The “Flour Tower” – One of the most unique (and fun) experiences I have ever had at a museum. And the amazing views from the observation deck at the end are the icing on the cake!

The “Explosions” (downsides) of the Mill City Museum:

1. It’s small – The museum was a lot of fun and had great exhibits… I just wish there had been more.
2. Bored Staff – Some of the staff didn’t seem very excited to be there, and looked bored at times.  
3. Plan ahead – The museum is located near the Guthrie theatre and the metrodome, so if you go on a day when there are events at either or both of those places, parking can be tricky. 
4. Can be loud – On one of my trips, a school group was at the museum, and, as kids often do, made a lot of noise. I’m glad the kids were having fun, but in that small space, the noise can be distracting.

Top 4 Reasons You Need to Check it out:

1. The Unique Setting - It’s a really cool reuse of a really cool old building that was actually a mill!
2. The Unique Attractions - The one-of-a-kind “Flour Tower” is a must!
3. The Smells and Sounds - The only museum that uses “baking brownies” and “daily explosions” as major selling points (unless someone has started a “Museum of Catastrophic Baking Accidents”.)
4. Fun, Fun, Fun - It is a lot of fun for kids and adults! Check out this video.

The Mill City Farmer’s Market

Another fun way to experience the museum: A farmer’s market is held near the south entrance of the Museum Saturdays from 8am – 1pm until October 18th. Walk between the museum and the Guthrie Theatre (the big blue square building – more on that in my next post) and you’ll see the market. For more info click here.

Important Information

Location: 704 S. 2nd St. Minneapolis (map). Look for the “Gold Medal Flour” sign. The museum is next door.

Hours: 10am – 5pm Tues – Sat (open until 9pm Thurs.), noon – 5pm Sun. Closed Mon.

Prices: $10 adult, $5 kid 6 -17, $8 students and seniors. (no extra charge for “Flour Tower” or baking lab).

For more info, visit the museum’s website.

Getting there with a car: Your best bet is I-35W to Washington Ave (from the north or south). Head NW on Washington to Park Avenue. Turn right. The museum is almost straight ahead 1 block. Parking is available in the Guthrie ramp just a block south on 2nd. Other lots are available around the area as well.

Getting there without a car: Easiest is to take the light rail to the Metrodome stop. Walk east on Chicago Ave for 3 blocks, then head north on 2nd for a block. There are also public transit buses that run near the museum. For more info on buses or light rail click here. You can get there by bike via the bike trail along the west bank of the Mississippi.

I’m off to the next stop, the Guthrie Theatre! See you there!

        Today we stop at what has been dubbed, “The Most Romantic Spot in Minneapolis” – The Stone Arch Bridge. Stretching more than 2,000 feet across the Mississippi river in the heart of downtown Minneapolis (map), the bridge is truly a sight to see. The bridge, built in 1883 by railroad magnate James J. Hill, earned its name because [spoiler alert]… it is supported by a series of 23 stone arches… and one steel truss. It served as a railroad bridge until 1964, and was recently re-opened for pedestrian and bike traffic (and the occasional Segway, trolley, or horse drawn carriage.). 

The historic Stone Arch Bridge stands gracefully over the placid Mississippi River.
    (Photo courtesy of Drew Geraets)

The Experience

Any of you who have ever seen or gone over a bridge, know that for the most part, bridges tend to just go straight across whatever it is they are crossing (river, highway, troubled water, etc.). We’ve all heard the saying, “the shortest distance between any two points is a straight line,” right? Apparently not James J. Hill. That was one of the first things I noticed about the bridge. Take a look at the unusual design of the bridge:

The unusual curve of the Stone Arch Bridge (foreground) with St. Anthony falls justvisible beyond the steel truss section. (Photo courtesy of Enrico Fuente)

As it turns out, there is a good reason for this design – James J. Hill (the railroad magnate who built the bridge in the beginning of this post, remember?) owned land on either side of the river, but his plots were not directly across from each other. Thus the long curvy bridge, instead of a straight one. 

As I began to cross the bridge from West to East, I first noticed the Mill Ruins. They are located in the bluff on West Bank. A series of canals and tunnels lead into the bluff. In the city’s milling heyday, water was channeled from the river above the falls, into canals to provide power to the mills along the bluffs. That water then flowed back into the river through the canals that make up the mill ruins. I really wanted to explore the tunnels, but they are, not surprisingly, sealed off with metal gates. 

Heading further east, I enjoyed watching boats slowly raise and lower through the lock and dam, and found St. Anthony falls provided a pleasing backdrop (both in sight and sound – more in my next post). The Bridge also gave me excellent view of the newest bridge in Minneapolis, the rebuilt I-35W bridge, just to the south (the old one collapsed about a year ago). In a neat contrast to the busy city on the west bank, the east bank bluffs are a peaceful state park shrouded by trees, with dirt paths winding throughout. My favorite aspect of the Stone Arch Bridge though is the views:                                

The lovely Minneapolis skyline on the western bank of the river. The building on the left that looks like it has collapsed is the MIll City Museum (Photo courtesy of Tom Westbrook)

 One section of Mill Ruins park, located at the western end of the bridge. I took this photo from the Stone Arch Bridge on a recent visit.

The lush wooded bluffs and historic Pillsbury (as in the doughboy) A Mill (flour mill) on the river’s east bank. (Photo courtesy of Kate Harrington)

The view north from the bridge features St. Anthony falls, the lock and dam, and the 3rd Ave. bridge. (Photo courtesy of Jvstin)

The Highlights:

1. The Views: The west bank offers beautiful panoramic cityscapes.
2. The Price is Right: The bridge and Mill Ruins park are free! The only expense you might incur would be parking, if you park in the pay lot at the west end or a ramp in St. Anthony. There is often ample street parking near the west end of the bridge though.
3. Fun for all: Everyone seems to enjoy the bridge. There are informational placards on the bridge, and I noticed that many young children were fascinated by the lock and dam and St. Anthony falls.
4. The ambiance: The combination of the views and the calming roar of the falls (yes, roars can be calming) make this one of the most enchanting spots in Minneapolis, especially at night:

The Lowlights:

1. Rarely the river carries a slightly unpleasant odor (once in the six or seven times I’ve been there).
2. The views of the east bank are somewhat marred by power plants, towers, and power lines.
3.  Watch out for bike riders – I’ve encountered several on the bridge who seemed unwilling to slow down or even turn slightly to avoid pedestrians. Make sure you look both ways before crossing from one side to the other (here I mean crossing the short way, from the north railing to the south railing).

The Top Four Reasons You Need to Go:

1. To see the things that make Minneapolis what it is today: The falls, the lock and dam, the old Mill buildings, the brand new Mill City Museum and Guthrie Theatre – all while standing on a National Historic Engineering Landmark.
2. The views
3. It’s the most romantic spot in Minneapolis!
4. It’s Free and fun for all ages!

A Fun Challenge:

There is a common rhyme associated with weddings: “Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.” See if you can spot all four of those things while standing on the Stone Arch Bridge. Feel free to post your answers as comments.

When You Go:

To Park on the West Bank (downtown): 

 From the East: Head into downtown on I-35W. Get off at Washington Ave and head northwest (towards the skyscrapers). Turn right on Portland Ave. Follow Portland Ave straight into the parking lot. From the West: Follow the directions above, or take Hennepin Ave Northeast through downtown to Washington Ave. Turn right on Washington and head southeast. Turn left onto Portland Ave and take Portland Ave. straight into the parking lot.

To Park on the East Bank (St. Anthony): 

From the East: Take I-35W towards downtown. Get off on 4th St heading Northwest. Turn left on 2nd Ave. After you cross University Ave, follow the signs into the parking ramp. Walk through the tunnel, and through the St. Anthony Main building complex. Exit onto Main St. and head southeast (towards the mill buildings). The entrance to Stone Arch Bridge will be about three blocks away on your right.

From the West: Follow the directions above, or take Hennepin Ave through downtown, and across the river. Turn right onto University Ave. Turn right on 2nd Ave. and park in the same ramp as above.

Enjoy! See you at the next stop!